The roof seal installs into a channel inside, or on the bottom of the roof. The size of the track that the beads accepts into is 3/8 inch. Coleman and Fleetwood pop ups with metal, or two piece roofs always use this seal. Somerset and other manufactures that use this size track can use this seal as well.
46 foot options fits units up to 14 foot box size campers.
50 foot options fits units with box sizes larger than 14 foot, such as later model Niagara, Saratoga and Avalon's.
Each seal kit comes pre cut into 4 sections for an easy installation.
46' Kits have two 8 foot and two 15'
50' Kits have two 8 foot and two 17'
Installation :
This seal presses or slides into the channel inside the roofs lower edge. The lip of the seal faces inwards on most models. Some roofs that require this seal are easier to install than others. The proper tools and materials will make this installation a breeze.
Spray lubricant
Nylon prybar
Flat head screw driver
Breaker bar
Heat gun
Shop rags
Apply a small amount of heat to the installation nub of the seal with a heat gun. Spray some lubricant onto a rag and wipe the nub. Press the seal into the track with a nylon pry tool, or slide it into the ends. Overlapping the the seal at the corners or butting them together is acceptable.
Part number 4060100399P
Customer Reviews
Overall rating: 4.5 / 5 from 33 reviews.
Fit like a glove. New gasket sealed an area where water entered when driving down the road, not to mention the top no long er 'sticks' to the body.
This roof seal was just a small part of a roof rebuild for a 2004 Fleetwood Santa Fe that had several roof leaks. Installation was a breeze and I only needed to use a little silicone spray to insert the T side into the track. I do have concerns about the new style seal only having 1 fin where the OEM part had 2. From an engineering standpoint, having both inward and outward facing fins is a better design.
Perfect replacement and length was just right for our 2007 Fleetwood Bayside. It's an Americana series with a 12' box length. The factory seal had the ends of the track crimped down on it to keep it in place. I had to expand the slot in these areas with a flat blade screwdriver. I also had to open up the end of the slot a little with a Dremel and file as the new seal wouldn't slide in with the factory sharp corner. I expect the seals were installed before the trim was placed on the roof. All-in-all, this was a worthwhile investment as the factory one had the bulb separating from the track foot in two places and it was only a matter of time.
The original metal roof seal had shrunk significantly on my 1991 Coleman Sequoia, and I had used plumber’s putty on the gaps over the years to try to keep the mice out of the camper. I eventually lost that battle and had to buy new canvas. Before I could put the new canvas on, I wanted to replace that roof seal. I was thankful to find it available at Coleman Pop Up Parts!
The original seal on the door side, the rear, and the road side of the camper was one continuous piece, and the separate front piece of the seal was roughly mitered at 45 degrees to the continuous piece at each of the front two corners. The front piece and continuous piece had shrunk up so that there was a 6 inch gap at each front corner. I wanted to install the new seal in one continuous piece, if possible, similar to the original seal but this turned out to be quite a challenge. The extruded channel for the seal was recessed at the front and rear so that those channels are about a quarter of an inch above the side channels. The top has a molding that partially covers the ends of the channels at each of the four corners. These issues make inserting the T section of the seal very difficult in the front and rear channels.
I originally started the insertion process on the door side of the top. This went reasonably well working alone, using silicone lubricant and a push/pull sequence to move the seal along in the channel and by smoothing out bunched up sections of the seal, but I could not insert the new seal in the front or rear channel. The seal would not stay in the channel and easily came out. After trying multiple times unsuccessfully, I decided to cut a short piece of new seal as a test piece to see if I could get it into the front and rear channel on the door side but could not. The test piece did, however, go into the front and rear channel on the road side, so I pulled the new seal out of the door side channel and started over on the road side channel. I thought about removing the screws and dropping down the front and rear channel to facilitate the seal insertion here, but decided that was risky on an old camper. I needed to get help from a friend.
It was very difficult going even with a strong-armed friend helping me. Inserting the seal in the side channels (door side and road side) was not so difficult using a spray silicone as lubricant on the seal, and having two people working as a team , one to guide the insertion of the seal and one to pull the seal along. The “insertion person” needed to push up and push forward on the seal at the channel end while the “pulling person” coordinated a simultaneous pull on the seal (ie, as on a count of 1-2-3), smoothing out bunched up portions of the seal as the seal moves along. Going around the corners was difficult, but doable with patience.
After about a four hour struggle we were able to get the new seal installed in one continuous piece with only one butt joint on the door side between the door and the front corner. I plan to use super glue on the butt joint to attach the two ends. I am happy that the four corners have no joints, and I hope one butt joint on the door side will be less likely to seep water during driving in the rain, than having the butt joint on the front of the trailer. I thought the new seal would eventually shrink, and I wanted to be able to easily remove a short piece of seal near the front corner to insert an additional piece of left-over seal to fill the gap. I thought about arranging the new seal to have the butt joint on the rear section so water would be less likely to leak in while driving in a rainstorm, but I think inserting a piece to fill a gap after the seal shrinks would be just too difficult here!
So overall, it was quite a challenge. In total, I estimated I spent about four 8 hour days trying different techniques, starting on the wrong door side, trying to work alone unsuccessfully, and then getting the job done with the help of a strong-armed friend. I hope hearing about my experience will be of help to the next person installing a metal roof seal! Best of luck!!
Do yourself a favor when installing a new roof metal roof seal. Slightly open the T slot, use a small artist brush to paint the slot with vaseline. Heat the seal in the sun or use heat gun. Insert the seal in the freshly opened T slot and slide in slowly into place little by little.trying to pry it into place with trim tools or screen door tool is frustrating at best. The tools will come in handy to finish out the installation though.
Store owner replied:
Noel, a video for this product is planned. So sorry we did not have one at the time of your purchase.
This was the perfect length for my 12 foot Coleman Americana. I even had about 3 feet left over and It's cheaper than ordering it by the foot. It is a bit of a chore to install. The installation directions say to use silicone spray and they are kidding. The installation went much easier after I spray the channel down with silicone.
Silicone spray lubricant and three people made installation a breeze. The pic shows where we were half way done, as ours went on in one continuous piece, and we had stopped to discuss replacing the wood on that end.
After searching the internet and hit dead ends on the gasket/seal I needed for an old Palomino pop up camper I ran across Coleman Parts website and they had exactly what I needed. I even emailed with a question prior to ordering and they responded quickly. I received the shipment fairly quickly too. I recommend Coleman Parts.
David P.
Your sales person got back to me and knew just the right roof seal to get.
Went on easy enough and applying the 3M gasket adhesive, I sealed up the 45 degree corners I cut in.
Thanks y’all are my go to guys for my pop up camper!!
Installing the seals was difficult at first. However, it went much easier once we coated the section that goes into the channel in petroleum jelly, inserted it at the end, and slid it it. At times, it would bind, and we'd use a tool to try and pop it in.
Just installed the roof seal on my 2003 Coleman Utah. Did it by myself in about 2-1/2 hours. Remove the old seal and cleaned the channel. The channel was slightly above the bottom of the roof corners, so I would flex and feed the seal about 1” at a time, and it would easily slide all the way down the channel. Went very fast. I then cut the corners at 45 and work in a piece of foam backer in the ID where corners meet. This will seal any gaps in the corner. I did use a bit of spray silicone on one side where I had sealant residue from repairing previous seal. A very easy process. Do not be intimidated.
Went in pretty easy. Only a few areas where it was too tight to slide the seal over but the silicone spray helps quite a bit. I'd love to have square corners but I think it's fine.
Response to my inquiry on installation instructions were prompt. Unless I was missing something, plan on a long and difficult installation as the both lips on the gasket have to be seated completely in both the roof camper metal channels and I ended up using a small flat ender screw driver to do that. Now that its complete, the gasket looks awesome and will last another 16 years as this replaced a 2004 Sedona Tent Trailer roof gasket.
Our old gasket was stiff and had come apart at the corners so that water leaked in. This new gasket is soft and flexible. It was actually very easy to slide the new one into the track. The instructions on this site made it sound like it would be difficult, but it wasn’t. You just need to take your time slide it in to the track at an angle, and pull it down the track. It helps if you have two people, one to get it into the track correctly and one to help pull it along. There is one major issue though. It is very difficult to cut the corners so that they match correctly. I cut the corners at exactly 45°. The track part of the gasket meets properly, but The rounded gasket part has a giant corner gap. This is very problematic since the corners are the most important point for leakage. You can’t glue them together because of the gap. Also, the gasket walls are very thin which makes them even more difficult to get together. I haven’t yet found a glue or a method that would work. I may have to buy this all over again just to get the corners right. It would be very helpful if someone knowledgeable at the part store could give good instructions as to joining or gluing the corners in order to complete the job.
Well first of all the person I talked to was very helpful and there service was top shelf. My camper is longer made so the part has changed slightly not there fault at all thankfully they even had a part it works but the original design I think is better again not there fault this is my go to place for parts for my trailer even if I look somewhere else I always seem to find the right part here thanks guys keep up the good work
Perfect fit for my 2003 Coleman Westlake camper. I did the work on a hot sunny day which made the rubber material very soft and easy to work with.
Slide each of the four pieces out of you can. It’s easier than trying to pull it out of the Track. Then simply feed the new seal into one side, trim it at 45 degrees, then work your way around the camper. It’s a bit easier with 2 people so that one can pull the seal while the other feeds the material.
Lastly, there is a small gap at each coerced because my cuts were not perfect. So I will seal up each corner with a dab of silicone.
